Borghi magazine ~ the discovery of the fantastic world of italian medieval villages

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Peratallada: Light stones and gardens of hydrangea

Peratallada: Light stones and gardens of  hydrangea

Peratallada, province of Girona,Spagna


This is the story of a journey made on a very hot summer day.  We are in Catalonia, in the province of Girona, in the Baix Empordà area. We had the sea very close but the chaotic traffic to the coast, made us decide to go in another direction.  So, we discovered this little village in the backcountry, also frequented  by “hit and run” tourists.

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Just outside the village we notice the wonderful  Romanesque church of  Santo Stefano,  with its bright facade, and on top a strange - but common  in the whole region - perforated bell tower. All around, there is only  sky.

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A view on the emptiness is also the Portal de la Virgen, the only one of the ancient doors of access,  remained in the walls of Peratallada. The fortifications, among the most important of Catalonia, included three city walls with towers and moats  dug in the stones.  The element  that immediately catches the attention in the village is the tower of the  Homenaje,  with its squared  merlon,  survived  with another three  towers.

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But you’re wrong if you think you’ll  only see towers, moats, broken and city  walls.  This village today has a kind looking, because of the pale stone that almost crumbles in the sun, creating a golden dust which makes you think about some corners in Africa.  Maybe you will remind  Morocco in front of  a large ocher building, enclosed by a wall, with fountain and a palm tree.

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 Peratallada is gentle  also  for the  plants and flowers arranged by the inhabitants along the cobbled streets: hydrangea gardens are singing in the Mediterranean dim light.  In Carrer de la Roca, the stones could be counted one by one. Plaça Major  is another of those places you’ll  never ever  forget. Flanked by colonnades,   it offers , in  the variety of arches and windows,  a compendium of regional Gothic style.

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